In Maine Sport’s fishing department, we don’t just sell the stuff – we LIVE to fish! We’re out there all the time, as guides and just for fun, both locally and out of town, in fresh and salt water, in moving water and flat. And when we’re not out there, we’re in here, talking with anglers every day about their adventures, both successful and not so much. So we know what’s going on, and we can help you find fish. We won’t give up anyone’s ‘secret’ spot, but we can point you in the right direction, talk about what’s hatching, what techniques have been working, what flies or lures to try...
New for 2019 — we are happy to offer FREE fly tying instruction for our customers upon request. Please contact Seth to arrange: firstname.lastname@example.org. Or DIY and check out our instructional material below. We hope to hear from you, or see you around the vise here in the shop soon!
Tail: the purpose for a tail on this type of streamer is to add color, contrast, flash and lift, so that the finished fly looks appealing in-the-round, and catches subtle currents with lifelike neutral buoyancy. Start the thread one third of a shank length back from the hook eye. Wind several tight wraps rearward toward the hook bend. Tie in to the bottom of the shank the wire or oval tinsel rib/reinforcing counter wrap for Spey hackle/s. Wind consecutive thread wraps back over main end of wire/oval tinsel until your thread reaches the hook bend. Tie in the tailing material or materials on top of the shank, and build a smooth under body as you wrap thread over to secure and the butt ends of the tail and trim any excess materials.
Body: maintaining a uniform diameter to the foundation of the body you've built around the hook shank, tie in your main body material and secure it along the shank with thread from the bend of the hook where your tail extends up to the tie in point, one third of a shank length behind the hook eye. Advance your body material with consecutive wraps up to where the thread hangs, and tie off/trim excess of the body material, leaving the approximate front one third of the hook bare for where the Spey hackle/s is wrapped, the wings are added and the head is formed.
Hackle: in this case, the hackle also acts as a fair portion of the body of the finished fly, adding a sweeping, curved outline to this bait fish impression. Tie in the marabou feather along with another sparser feather to both reinforce the marabou fibers and to add a fuller or more colorful, fishy look. Holding both hackle feather stems securely, moisten and stroke the fibers back toward the rear of the hook, as you prepare to fold and wrap these hackles up the hook shank. Now build a thread base up to the eye of the hook, but wind the thread back leaving room to work on the other parts of the fly at the head. Again grasping both hackle stems (with hackle pliers if you like), now fold and wrap the hackle fibers up the hook shank with consecutive turns of the material, taking care not to add a twist to the hackle stems as you wind on about five turns. Tie off the hackles securely with ample thread wraps to really trap and lock in the stem. Now advance the rib in a spaced apart counter (clockwise) wrap over the body and then through the turns of hackle as well. As you advance the rib, some of the hackles will get slightly moved around or mashed down under wraps of the rib. Do what you can to minimize capturing hackle fibers, but don't worry about losing a few in the process.
Wing/Collar: the back as well as the forward fins of the bait fish impression that you're creating are achieved in the varying proportions and materials that make up the wing and collar. Tie in a sparse amount of material to form an under wing that is just a bit longer than the furthest extending hackle fibers. Tie in a sparse and somewhat shorter clump of flashy wing material on top of the under wing. Then wind a few turns of a soft hackle feather, making a collar and compressing the hackle and under wing into shape, away from the head and hook eye. Tie in the top wing just in front of the collar so that the top of the collar is pushed down upon and a little bit forced out to each side by the top wing. The top wing should be overall shorter than the longest fiber of the under wing, but longer than the flashy middle wing under the collar.
Head/Eyes: the diameter of the head is built up by applying epoxy or UV resin over stick-on adhesive tape eyes, adding extreme luster, translucency and durability to this already tough, yet sparse and highly motile fly. Before sticking the tape eyes on, add and let dry a single penetrating coat of clear cement. Finally, apply epoxy or UV resin over the eyes and cemented thread wraps on the head, rotating the fly to ensure even distribution before the head permanently takes its shape.